Frequently Asked Questions



  • Is it necessary to remove my old furnace when upgrading to a new air-condition system?
  1. Older furnaces won’t have the rated blower performance
  1. Older furnaces are too tall to allow for an evaporator coil


  • Can we relocate the new furnace into the attic instead of the back in the closet?
The cost to re-locate the new furnace in a different location can be 3 to 4 times the cost to replace it in the same location. Modifications to the gas supply, the entire ducting Tree, the electrical supply & the modifications to the attic itself such as flooring, structural changes, & additional ventilation air supplies, new roof penetration for the vent pipe & enlargement of the attic access are some of the issues involved.



  • Is it necessary to replace all the old ducting when upgrading to a new heating and cooling system?
No, But it is a good idea to budget for this also. In some cities it is required, but most people use the same ducting, although we don’t recommend it.



  • Are city permits required to change out a fan?
Definitely!  Of all the things you might do to your home, you really should have this work inspected. Asphyxiation, fire or explosions can occur if things are not done correctly. Also, to insure your homeowners insurance will cover any such problems, an inspection is a small price to pay to insure that the proper job was done.



  • I’ve always heard that “Carrier” or “Trane” was the best brand. Is one brand better than another?
Most people have some preference, But technically most brands are very similar in their manufacture, although there are some exceptions. Some brands are sold through suppliers where their principle customers are Non licensed contractors, or handymen. Many well known brands are sold through wholesale suppliers where their principle customers are licensed, legitimate contractors. Many brands are sold with a multitude of names, such that different dealers can be more competitive selling their particular brand.



  • Is the new Freon better or less expensive than the standard type of Freon?
R-22 (Freon) is being replaced with R-410A  (also known as Puron©). The cost of both products has risen sharply recently, & the R-22 refrigerant is being Phased out as it is environmentally un-friendly. Currently it is still manufactured & most equipment is available in Both types, But the more efficient systems are all using R-410A.



  • My existing 30 year old system isn’t performing very well. What do you recommend?
Replacing it with a New High efficient system. Most people wouldn’t think of putting any major repairs into a 30 year old vehicle, but for some reason, many people think their heating & air conditioning system should be working after 25 to 30 years. Today’s systems are so much more efficient & technological advanced from the older systems.

 

  • What is the life expectancy of my furnace?
We refuse to perform any service on equipment 25 years or older. If by some chance it still operates, we don’t want to touch it. Surely any subsequent failure after we do would appear to be something we did. Generally if your equipment is 20 years or more, it’s time to think seriously about New equipment. Generally after 25 to 30 Years the heat exchanger cracks or ruptures & carbon Monoxide can be mixed in with the heated air & is dangerous if not fatal.



  • What is the major difference from my old furnace and a new furnace?
Your Old furnace was a non-induced furnace and probably 50 to 60 % efficient, although they were not rated in those days. New furnaces are 80% AFUE (efficient) and they are available up to 93% efficient. New furnaces are incapable of “back-drafting” as was a common problem with older furnaces.



  • What is AFUE/ what is SEER
AFUE means Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency, is the government rating to compare one furnace to another & compare its  fuel ( gas) efficiency. SEER stands for Seasonal energy efficiency Rating  & is another government or industry standard to compare the electrical efficiency of one product to another.



  • I have a gas furnace and was told I should get a “heat pump”. What is it?
You have a natural Gas furnace because it was the most reasonable value to heat your home. In some areas of the country, electricity is less expensive than natural gas, & in those areas a heat pump system may be a better value. A Heat pump is like running your air conditioner in the winter, But running the heat transfer to the interior of the home, instead of outside as in the air conditioning mode. They work without natural gas & run entirely on electricity.



  • In order to save money, I turn my air conditioning system completely off. Although, when I come home from work, it doesn’t seem to cool down my house fast enough. What do you recommend?
These systems are not designed to be completely turned off. Even a new & properly operating system doesn’t work well in extreme temperatures, These systems work best if set to a comfortable temperature & left in the “on” mode.




  • I have a new system but when the heat wave gets to one-hundred degrees or above, it doesn’t cool down enough. What is the problem?
A properly sized system, operating properly works in normal hot & cold applications. Extremes in temperature may be more than your system can provide. The best any system can perform is 20+ degrees “split”. This is the difference in the temperature of the air coming out of the supply registers minus the temperature of the air going into the return air grille. New properly charged systems with new highly insulated ducting May provide 20+ degrees of split. If your system is working at the 10 degree range, It may require a Freon charge, an evaporator coil cleaning, A blower cleaning, or a major overhaul.